Fort Kochi has always been a mix of cultures. The Dutch, British, Portuguese, and Jews. Their influence extends to everything, most notably architecture and food. And nowhere is this amalgamation more profound than at Brunton Boatyard, a CGH Earth heritage hotel perched on Calvathy Road.
Indeed, at their History restaurant, one is serenaded by way of a scrumptious fine dining experience that very thing: the history of Fort Kochi, through 32 cuisines from all the communities that make up the place.
However, at their Armoury Restobar, this emphasis on the local quietens down to bring to the fore the old-world English charm. And what better way to do it than with the traditional high Tea? This is precisely what the hotel leans into.
Set by the waterfront, the space is simple but distinctive. Wooden furniture, vintage maps, and true to its name, walls lined with antique guns. Upon my arrival, Chef Naveen introduced the classic English ritual. But before we delved into the high tea concept, I was offered Armoury’s popular beverage, the 24k chamomile mocktail. A few sips into it, I could savour hints of turmeric, sugar syrup, chamomile buds, lime, and tonic water. Refreshing!
"High tea is a British tradition that typically starts around 3pm and continues until after 5 pm,” Naveen began. “The Armoury follows the same timing. Our course involves a light meal of tea, sandwiches, scones, and cakes — also known as ‘charlie’."
But I wasn’t yet sure of how this old British custom would sit in the relaxed, coastal vibe of Kochi. The answer, interestingly, was right there on the menu. The options under the signature blends had a clear Indian touch.
I started with Mattancherry Sulaimani, a black tea infused with fresh mint and a dash of lemon. Though traditionally enjoyed after a hearty biryani, here, the drink is best accompanied by masala cookies and finger sandwiches.
Similarly, each beverage comes with a specific food pairing. “Tea is often served with biscuits and some fried snacks. But when paired like how wine is with food, the experience is elevated. Even exquisite. That’s what we aim for at Brunton. We curated this selection of treats with much thought and care. After all, people come here to unwind, slow down and soak in the English culture,” Naveen says.
Cutting chai is served with cookies and cutlets. Masala chai comes with choux pastry. South Indian filter coffee pairs with macaroons and mousse. Idukki spiced ginger coffee goes with scones. Also, these finger bites are elegantly presented in a three-tier setup.
While going through the list of herbal and infused teas on offer, Naveen treated me with raisin scones. With each bite of this buttery, tender, and crumbly treat, one sees heaven! These are best had with a generous dollop of marmalade, cream or chocolate.
Next on my list was the Earl Grey tea. Made with high-grown Indian or Sri Lankan tea leaves, this refined black tea is uplifting, thanks to the citrusy essence of bergamot. Sipping it while watching the sky turn a beautiful crimson at twilight is a sight to behold. I also sampled the English Breakfast tea. Often a blend of Assam and Ceylon leaves, this brisk brew, taken with milk and sugar, offers a classic start to the day.
While the menu was eye-catching, tasting every variety felt like an impossible task. Alongside the teas, the coffee choices were equally tempting, ranging from French press to ristretto and latte.
As the sky darkened with rain-soaked clouds and a light drizzle began, I decided to wrap up my tea journey with the Idukki spiced ginger coffee. Infused with ginger, jaggery, and regional spices, this warming brew paired perfectly with the chef’s recommended raisin scone.
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