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Culinary seaman on top of the world
It is simply impossible to separate the chef from the artist when it comes to the Michelin-starred Virgilio Martinez—Peru’s de facto culinary ambassador, whose restaurant Central, in Lima, was judged the ‘World’s Best Restaurant 2023’, sponsored by S Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. The concept of altitude and verticality rules at Central. Martinez uses the Andes mountains, the Amazon river and rainforests, and the Pacific Ocean as his grocery store. “The tasting menu plays with the unevenness of altitude cuisine, going deeper into the locally ava…
Turning over a new leaf
Not sure if you’ve noticed, but the leaves have begun sporting an ochre hue, the winds are getting cooler, and the sun gentler. The shift in the season is evident, especially along some of Delhi’s most beautiful roads. The festivities are just around the corner too, with Lord Ganesh marking his arrival this weekend — could this be the beginning of the best times? I’d say yes. Speaking of turning over a new leaf, the city’s esteemed progressive-Indian restaurant, Indian Accent, which gave Delhi and its food lovers a taste of what re-imagined I…
A glassy affair
Mist swirling around tops of lush green mountains and rain-drenched streets provide a picturesque backdrop for the recently-launched Fiori in Lonavala. The restaurant is a welcome addition to the hilly neighbourhood, where founder-siblings Suraj and Sanskriti Gupta serve comforting European and Mediterranean fare. Food: Head chef Gracian de Souza is the man helming the kitchen. Although it is a vegetarian restaurant, one does not feel like they are missing out on anything. The Feta and Watermelon Salad has a salty kick from the balsamic drizz…
The Malayali on a high in Poland
Chandramohan Nallur never tires of telling the story. A story of celebrating his cultural identity in a foreign land. As Director, Business Relations, at the Indo-Polish Chamber of Commerce and Industries in Warsaw, Poland, Nallur’s task was sourcing clients for Indian businesses. One such client was a Nigerian businessman, Yusuf Jimoh, who ordered five tonnes of rice flakes. Fate loves surprising twists. The order came four days before Russia invaded Ukraine on February 24, 2022. Because of the volatile movement of the exchange rate, Jimoh wa…
The monsoon’s sweetest by the sea
In Goan homes, a sweet ritual is practised on the first of August every year. People begin the month by eating something sweet, typically made with coconut and madachem godd (black palm jaggery)—a mixture called godd chunn. It contains two ingredients found in abundance in the state: jaggery and coconut. The belief is that having this delectable combo will ensure the month ahead is pleasant. A popular sweet something made with this mix is patoli (patoleo for plural)—a Goan monsoon classic with turmeric leaves, rice, ghee, coconut and of cours…
Fun and fantastical with food theatrics
Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed’s skilful food artistry splashes out in an informal yet jaw-dropping melee of flavours. Think food theatrics with a delicious global twist in the Mumbai edition of the Dubai Michelin-starred Carnival by Tresind. Food: The Chaat sundae is a tribute to one of India’s favourite street foods. A pretty dish with spinach papdi, dahi bhalla, yogurt ice cream, and chutneys for the khatta-meetha twist in ruby-lipped pouting granita with pomegranate beads. Pil pil pollichathu regales seafood lovers in the grilled sea bass stroked …
The shroom boom
Mushrooms are mushrooming in kitchens all over the place. Like David Blaine, they are appearing in diverse guises from psilocybin mushrooms (thank to the renewed buzz about psychedelics) to substantial slices of king oyster mushrooms serving as scallop substitutes. A highlight dish on the restaurant chain The Bombay Canteen’s menu is the Mushroom Brinji, a twist on the traditional rice dish from Tamil Nadu. “Our version uses mushrooms like Kashmiri morels, wood ear mushrooms, and Lion’s mane sourced from a gourmet mushroom farm in Delhi NCR. …
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