In 2024, Indonesia welcomed over 710,000 Indian travellers, according to its Central Statistics Agency. Most found their way to Bali, a favourite with young Indian honeymooners, with postcard-perfect beaches and Instagram-ready resorts. But for those who can’t book a flight just yet, there’s an easier route — Tamra at Shangri-La Eros, Delhi, where Indonesian chefs Aris Diono and Anwar (of Shangri La Jakarta) are bringing the islands’ flavours straight to the capital.
For both chefs, the story began at home. “I grew up in a family where traditional Indonesian food was at the heart of every gathering,” chef Diono recalled. Watching his mother cook Nasi Goreng, Gado-Gado, and Rendang sparked his passion for the kitchen. Food became a way to stay connected to his Javanese heritage and, “share its beauty with others”.
On the opening day, the lunch spread unfolded like a postcard from the islands. We began with chef Diono’s Tenderloin Rendang, a staple Indonesian dish. Prepared in the Minang style — a tradition from West Sumatra known for its slow-cooked dishes, dry curries, and fiery chilli kick — rendang is braised in coconut milk and spices until the curry reduces and clings to n-the-mouth slices of tenderloin. “Rendang is one of Indonesia’s most famous dishes,” Diono explained. “It’s about slow cooking until the flavours sink deep.”
Islands on a plate
Indonesia’s 17,000 islands create a kaleidoscope of food traditions, and the pop-up captured that spectrum. From Lombok came the fiery Ayam Taliwang — grilled chicken marinated with red chillies, garlic, kencur (greater galangal), and fried shrimp paste. From Java, there was Nasi Uduk, coconut rice scented with pandan, a sweet companion to spicy sambal and curries. West Sumatra brought the classic Rendang, while Bali added freshness with Lawar Tuna, a minced raw tuna salad brightened with herbs, chillies and lime.
Then there were the comfort dishes. Nasi Goreng, Indonesia’s beloved fried rice, comes softer, with a distinct sweet-spicy balance, thanks to kecap manis. “The difference between Malaysian and Indonesian Nasi Goreng is our sweet soy sauce,” chef Diono pointed out during the tasting. Its companion, Bihun Goreng (fried rice noodles), was stir-fried simply, the kind of dish often eaten for breakfast.
The festival also revealed Indonesia’s cosmopolitan influences. A delicate Chicken Shu Mai or dim sum, while not traditionally Indonesian, was a nod to Chinese influences that have shaped its kitchens. “It’s fusion and by infusing it with our spices, it becomes Indonesian while respecting its origins,” said Diono. Next came a comforting bowl of Sop Buntut (oxtail soup), a dish that traces its origins to 17th-century Dutch colonial times. Prepared with slow-cooked buff tail in a clear broth, it is lightly seasoned with aromatics like onion, garlic, ginger, and often celery. “Spices like galangal, nutmeg, and coriander seeds infuse warmth and depth into the broth, while kecap manis adds the umami punch,” added Diono.
The kick of chilli
Indonesians love their chillies and to understand the cuisine, one must start with its heartbeat: sambal. This spicy chilli paste is used across dishes — both as an ingredient and as a side, whether with Sop Buntut or Nasi Goreng. A common daily preparation in Indonesian households, chef Diono said, “Sambal makes the meal come alive. Every region has its sambal, and every family makes it differently.”
At the pop-up, sambal appeared in dozens of variations, from the smoky Sambal Terasi with shrimp paste, to the Sambal Dabu Dabu from Manado in North Sulawesi, made with bird’s eye chillies, tomatoes and lime, or the fragrant Sambal Matah from Bali, with onions, chillies, and lemongrass. Alongside came spicy pickled sides like Acar Timun (cucumber) and Acar Nanas (pineapple).
At the heart of their cooking are certain non-negotiables: velvety coconut milk; bumbu dapur, a spice paste of shallots, garlic, chili, and candlenuts that forms the base of countless dishes like Rendang and Satay marinades; and kecap manis. Coastal kitchens lean on seafood, mountain communities on roots and spices, and trade has always brought outside influences to the mix. “Spices, herbs, and fermented ingredients are the soul of Indonesian cuisine,” the chefs explained. Turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, and basil provide brightness, while shrimp paste and tempeh add umami depth.
Finally, we ended on a sweet note with Dadar Gulung — delicate pandan crepes rolled around a rich coconut-jaggery filling, the perfect indulgence after a spice-laden unlimited buffet. The festival features a rotating line-up of three different menus through its run, where diners can return for a new taste of the Indonesian archipelago each visit — no two meals the same, but all promising the same soulful punch of flavour.
Available at Tamra, Shangri-La Eros, Janpath, till August 31, priced at ₹3,200 plus taxes per person available from 12.30pm onwards
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