Delhi restaurateur Shubh Sharma—behind Mayfair, Barcode, and Pokerface—returns with Matram, Dwarka’s first chef-driven dining space. With a pan-Indian menu spanning Kashmir to Kanyakumari, the restaurant sets out to deliver India’s flavours on a single plate.
Matram makes a striking impression with stone-carved elephants, wooden pillars, and a water fountain. Inside, warm lighting meets Kathakali murals, while the ceiling, designed to mimic the open sky, draws inspiration from the nadumuttam of Kerala’s Nalukettu homes.
The kitchen is helmed by chef Suresh Singh Fartyal from Uttarakhand, who brings 24 years of experience across Goa, Punjab, Bengaluru, and Mumbai. “The challenge was sourcing ingredients,” he says. “Some, like nettle leaves from Uttarakhand or gucchi mushrooms from Himachal, were easy to bring in. Others required travelling across states to find the right vendors.”
The course began with Crisp Nadru (lotus root) Fritters, paired with three dips: Uttarakhand’s bhaang chutney, a tangy raw mango chutney, and a sweet-sour green apple chutney. What followed was a medley of the chef’s picks, including the Rum-Spiced Tiger Prawn Tandoori—soft, chewy prawns hot from the tandoor—which paired well with the chef’s favourite mocktail, the Uttarakhand Pahadi Hemp Spitz: nutty and faintly sweet.
The mocktail menu itself was a journey, with standouts like the Gujarati-style Variyali: frothy, sweet, made with fennel seeds and ice cream—a summer drink that still lands in September.
Among the more surprising dishes was the Tender Coconut Chilli Fry, an Indo-Chinese twist where coconut flesh, cooked in its own water, replaces paneer or chicken in a spicy, Manchurian-style sauce. For those chasing heat, the Bhoot Jolokia Chicken Tikka came in fiery, the ghost pepper’s slow burn complementing tender chicken.
And then there was the showstopper for mushroom lovers: Tandoori Gucchi Mushroom Shatavari—stuffed with paneer and saffron, served on asparagus, with a fresh salad of apple, coconut, and pomegranate.
For the main course, chef Fartyal brought Matram’s signature Bengali Kosha Kangsho—a slow-cooked mutton curry that came rich and velvety with golden-brown Luchi. From Tamil Nadu, the Chettinad Chicken carried its trademark heat, with fresh coconut, tamarind, and a robust blend of pepper, cumin, and fennel. Even the Watermelon Panchphoran, cooked with five spices and Himalayan herbs, found its place on the table.
We ended the spice-laden journey on a sweet note with the Indian cheesecake, where cottage cheese replaces the usual cream cheese—reworking classics with an Indian sensibility. With its ambitious menu and thoughtful execution, Matram is a timely addition to the NCR dining scene, showing just how expansive Indian food can be when curated with intent.
At Reliance Mall, Sector 13, Dwarka. Open seven days a week, 12pm onwards. A meal for two costs ₹2,000 plus taxes.
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